SPECIAL FEATURED BEACH REPORT by Sunlover
If you drive to the western extremity of the highway that skirts the northern coast of Crete you will eventually reach Kissamos. Look for the sign to Fallassarna as you leave the town and follow the road as it winds down to the sea through cultivated fields and greenhouses, interspersed with unusually straight rows of olive trees. These lie on a narrow, cultivated coastal plain fringed with a long, sandy beach overlooked by a few small hotels and apartments that make up Falassarna.
Unlike the more remote bays on the south coast, Falassarna is more accessible, lying as it does close to, probably, the best road on Crete, and an easy drive from Chania and the busier resorts close by. Even so, when we visited the area in mid September, it was quiet and relaxed with relatively few people around . It was our first visit to Crete and, unlike you, the reader who has wisely chosen to check NudistBeaches.info first, we had little idea where we might go to sunbathe and swim nude. We'd coyly asked our tour rep but, obviously not being of that persuasion herself, she rather vaguely said that "she'd heard that the quieter bays were away from the busier north coast". It was only when we got into conversation with another hotel guest one day while lying by the pool, and the subject of nudity came up, that she suggested we try Falassarna.
So there we were, dropping down towards the long curve of the bay ahead of us, the sun twinkling off the sea invitingly, until we reached a T-junction at the end of the road where we had to make a decision about which way to turn. Left appeared to lead towards the larger, more exposed part of the beach whereas the right seemed to be a little more rocky with the possibility of more sheltered and secluded bays; so right it was. Eventually we reached a couple of small hotels/apartments with a dusty car park outside and finding a vacant Eucalyptus tree, parked our hire car in its dappled shade. I don't know if it's acceptable to advertise but both those little hotels, The Sunset Apartments and The Falassarna Beach, had stunning views across the bay and, while maybe not exactly being 5 star, seemed clean and tidy. Any shortcomings in accommodation I think would be more than made up for by their beautiful outlook over the sea but we'd passed others further back up the road that I'm sure would be equally as nice. The moral of the story is that, unlike the more remote south coast beaches, I would imagine that you could hire a car at Chania and drive down to Falassarna and take a chance on finding accommodation without booking, outside the high season at least.
A flight of uneven steps took us down to the beach, the first stretch being taken up by the usual sunloungers and parasols. However we passed these, and their recumbent occupants, by and wandered further along towards the rocky outcrops I mentioned earlier, and within a couple of hundred metres we seemed to have left the world behind. At first we thought we'd got the place to ourselves, low dunes to our right, gentle waves to the left and fine, pale golden sand between our toes. Ahead of us we could see a few fishing boats moored in an inlet at the end of the beach and I suppose it must have been because were concentrating on that picturesque scene that we didn't see the other couple who'd got there ahead of us. They certainly hadn't seen us! If you've ever seen 'From Here to Eternity', (maybe an old film but nonetheless a classic) and the scene where Burt Lancaster and Deborah Kerr amorously intertwine in the crashing surf, well it was like that - but without the swimsuits. Try as we might to look away, to see a beautiful young couple uninhibitedly making love in the shallows, and obviously too far gone to care who was watching, was an magnet for the eyes, but feeling somewhat like intruders, we steadfastly walked on until they were out of sight behind the rocks. We too were now alone so we gratefully stripped off our clothes and waded out into the cooling sea; Crete can be a hot place in more ways than one even at the end of September!
The rest of the afternoon was spent lying in the sun or swimming and it was even quiet enough to explore the little harbour that had diverted our attention earlier. Fortunately the fishermen must have long lunch breaks in Falassarna so it was a nice feeling being able to wander about naked amongst the boats. Occasionally a 'clothed' sunbather from down the beach would stroll past but, apart from one bikini clad girl who stopped and talked to us as we paddled about at the edge of the sea, we were left undisturbed. Even the lovers we had seen earlier had put their clothes on and walked contentedly hand in hand back towards civilisation. I have to admit though that that once they'd gone, we took advantage of the solitude to indulge in some gentle romantic exercise too. Even though our honeymoon was long past, I think Eros must have been on Falassarna beach that afternoon. Should you ever make the same journey, I hope that you too only have the company of a Greek god to interrupt the tranquillity.
Submitted by Sunlover, (November 2005)